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Hardware included w/ the pergola

Tools & Materials Needed

1-2 tubes of epoxy (supplied) 1 wood block (4x4x8-in) 5/8 Washers Anchoring Nuts Anchoring Rods (24-in & ~6-ft) Anchoring Studs (8-in) Threaded rod couplers Square Drill Bit 2-1/2 & 3-inch screws

2 adjustable wrenches (8-in or longer) 1 white silicon caulking tube 1 caulking gun 1 masonry bit (3/4-in) Metal shims (i.e. quarters or washers) 1-2 screw guns Marking tape or string 2 rubber mallets An appropriate length light-duty extension cord 2 six-to-eight foot ladders one 12x12 or larger moving blanket (to protect the cedar from ground scratches 25-ft tape measure 1 two-foot carpenter’s framing square

STEP 1: MARKING THE CENTER SPOT FOR EACH OF THE COLUMNS

Using the site plan (provided with the pergola upon delivery), measure and determine precisely where the center spot for each of the columns will be. Mark each spot brightly.

STEP 2: DRILLING HOLES FOR THE ANCHORING STUDS.

Using a 3/4-inch masonry bit, drill a 4-inch hole into the patio where each of the center spots is marked. These holes will be used to secure the anchoring studs which will then connect to the rod that travels up the center of each column to where they are bolted down at the top of the pergola. NOTE: These studs must be installed properly to insure the integrity of the columns.

Once finished drilling the center spots for the anchoring studs, clean out the dust from each hole with a mechanical air blower. An air compressor is recommended. Cleaning the drilling dust and other debris from the holes is important because the anchoring studs will be glued using epoxy. Dust cannot be in the holes.

One last step: measure six inches in every direction away from the center point and mark brightly with a colored marker. This will be important in Step 4 when centering the columns over the anchoring studs.

STEP 3: PREPARING THE EPOXY & INSTALLING THE THREADED STUDS FOR THE HOLES

To prepare for the gluing of the anchoring studs, place an eight-inch threaded stud beside each hole. NOTE: The threaded studs have a coupler and a lock nut already preassembled on each of them.

Review the instructions on the tube of epoxy. Wear protective clothing, mask, and gloves. Insert the tube of epoxy into the caulking gun (supplied with the epoxy). Next, take off the cap from the tube. Last, pull the plug out and screw the mixing tip onto the tube. NOTE: It is very important NOT to use any epoxy until the two colors are mixed evenly and consistently. The color of epoxy that is ready to be used should be a dull gray color. After you mix the epoxy, you will not have much time before the epoxy hardens!!!

Once mixed, work quickly because the epoxy starts to cure (harden) immediately. Insert the tip of the tube into one of the center spot holes. Fill the hole half-way or more with epoxy. IMMEDIATELY, twist the eight-inch threaded stud all the way into the hole. Repeat this process for each of the center spot holes and eight-inch studs. The epoxy will be completely cured and completely hard after 35 minutes.

STEP 4: INSTALLING THE COLUMNS AND ANCHORING RODS

Two people are needed for the installation of the columns at this point. It will be handy to also have the assistance of a block of wood (approx. 4x4x8-in).

First, attach the 24-inch threaded rod into the coupler attached to the longer anchoring rod (~6-ft in length) that will run down the inside of the column. Then, with the column laying horizontal, slide the rod into the column. Repeat this for each column.

Now, have one person hold a column over the center spot while the other installer seats and threads the end of the assembled anchoring rod onto the coupler attached to the eight-inch studs. NOTE: this is where the block of wood comes in handy; use this block to insure the person holding the column does not drop it from fatigue.

Set the column in place and center it using the six brightly marked spots as a guide to insure that the column is lined up perfectly.

Next, the anchoring rods will need to be tightened, which is done from the top. Go to the top of the column. There are two nuts that have been secured for you already as a means to tighten the anchoring rod into the coupler. Using an adjustable wrench, tighten the top nut. NOTE: tighten the nut as tightly as possible to be sure all the hardware is solid. Finally, using two adjustable wrenches, take the two nuts off the top of the rod.

Next, apply silicon caulking to the top of the column and slide the aluminum plate down over the rod, followed by a washer (supplied) and one of the nuts removed in the previous procedure. Tighten the nut by hand first. Then, check to see that the column is plumb by placing a 2-ft carpenters level against the vertical side of the column at the lowest possible point. If the column is not level you must loosen the nut, shim under the column, retighten and recheck. The shims should be good, sound material. A few quarters will work.

When the column is plumb, tighten down on this nut until the column becomes perfectly rigid.
Last, place a flat washer (supplied) on top of the nut. Slide the bottom trim (i.e. the base of the column or plinth) down over the column. We recommend using white caulking silicon to secure the bottom trim.
Repeat this process for the other columns.

STEP 5: INSTALLING THE TOP OF THE PERGOLA TO THE COLUMNS

The top trim pieces are screwed to the bottoms of the entablatures. With a helper, carry the beam up the ladders and set it on the columns. You will need to guide the threaded rod up through the locating blocks of wood. Place a washer on the rod, then the last nut. Tighten the nut just snug. There is no need to crank these nuts down super tight.

STEP 6: BUILDING THE PERGOLA

First, with both entablatures bolted to the columns, assembly will be a breeze. Tap the perpendicular entablatures in place. No fasteners. They have a pencil line in the last notch. When we paint a pergola kit, we use a small drill to indicate alignment because the pencil lines get painted over. These pencil lines/drill holes need to be kept aligned with each other. In other words all the pencil lines should be pointing in the same direction as the pencil lines on similar parts.
Next, tap the rafters in place. No fasteners, but watch the pencil lines.

Finally, tap and guide the purlins in gently into place. Screw the purlins in with a 2-½ inch screw at each intersection. Use a little outdoor glue and a plug to finish each hole.

Viola! You have completed your new pergola! Congratulations.

Call Jason Shiers or Max Baldwin at 1-800-344-5103 with any questions or problems.

Please send photos to joe@baldwinpergolas.com. We would like to display your pergola on our website.

Thank you!

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